In my very first post, I listed a few of my goals:
Learn to surf. Like, for real. Catch a wave or several. Stand the fuck up and ride it. And don’t piss off everyone in the lineup.
Join a paddling club.
Swim to the Mokes.
(OK, basically I want to spend a lot of time in, on, and near the ocean. Got it.)
I have done, frankly, precious little towards these goals. I had kind of a shitty week last week. For no particular reason… I was just feeling down and unaccomplished and bad about myself and life. So my wise husband took me to the beach on Sunday. We swam out to the windsock at Kaimana beach. (Twice.) I returned on Monday, did a round trip by myself, and then hung out in the water watching a monk seal roll around in the sand and bask in the sun.
Today after a quick stint on campus, I went to Kailua. I kind of had in my mind that I might swim out to Flat Island, about 1/4 mile offshore. It’s just about twice the distance to the windsock, and since I can pretty easily do two round trips (and I’ve done a mile open water before), it should be no problem. Right? Right? But no.
In fairness, it was pretty choppy today. I did a (very short) swim parallel to shore, practicing alternate side breathing, trying not to swallow too much water. But I was weirdly scared not very far from shore. I do get more afraid swimming by myself than with others… there are always several swimmers going out to the windsock whenever I’m there, so I don’t feel so alone.
The surf forecast says it was only 2-3 foot waves today, but with some pretty good winds. So maybe I should keep an eye on the forecast and head back on a calmer day… it looks like this time next week might work.
Still, three days and three ocean swims is a much better record than I’ve had recently. I’m definitely much happier when I get time in the ocean. And I’m on fucking sabbatical, right? How am I going to meet these swim / surf / paddling goals if not now? So, let’s get out there!
Oh and as for the surfing: surfboard (cheap soft-top one from Costco) was acquired a while ago. Of course, it got dinged up before I even put the fins on! Cheap soft-top board. Oh well. I bought some epoxy resin (only added $5 to the cost of a cheap board, and there’s plenty to fix future dings) and fixed it up this morning. I’ll try to head out this week at least a couple of times. Maybe. Or maybe I’ll just keep swimming…